Luxor
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The best month to come — and the one everyone gets wrong
December is beautiful and busy. October is empty and still hot. The month we quietly recommend is neither, and it has nothing to do with temperature.
Why Medinet Habu is the temple nobody tells you about
It still has its colour. It has almost no one in it. And it is a fifteen-minute drive from the tombs everyone queues for. We open every journey here for a reason.
Hurghada to Luxor: what the €40 coach trip really costs you
A 3am pickup, nine hours on a bus, forty minutes at Karnak with a flag in the air. The maths of the cheap day trip, honestly told.
Is the sunrise balloon worth €130? An honest answer
Sometimes no. It depends on the season, the wind, and one thing about your itinerary most operators won't mention because it costs them the booking.
Ten minutes in Nefertari, and why people come out silent
The most expensive ticket in Egypt, capped at a handful of visitors a day. We explain exactly what you're paying for — and who should skip it.
Baksheesh, explained without the awkwardness
Who to tip, how much, and the three situations where handing over money is the wrong move entirely. Written by someone who grew up with it.
Karnak in one hour: the route we actually walk
Most people enter, photograph the big columns, and leave having missed the two things worth the trip. Here's the order we take guests in, and why.
Where we eat when nobody is watching
Not the Corniche places with laminated menus. Four kitchens on the west bank, what to order in each, and how to ask for it.
The hassle problem, and how much of it is real
Luxor's reputation is twenty years out of date — but not entirely. What's changed, what hasn't, and the two sentences that end 90% of it.